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My Mk1 Power Steering Conversion

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121K views 87 replies 24 participants last post by  Newtown Mk1  
#1 · (Edited by Moderator)
I fitted power steering to my mk1 gti a few months ago, I have a apx code 1.8T in it and a touran o2s 6 speed box,

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I found the steering very heavy from a combination of the extra weight from the engine/box conversion and from the 16 inch wheels so I decided to fit power steering

Im sure weve all heard about the TSR kits that use the bluebird rack? I located a bluebird rack and an old mk1 cabrio shell to mock up fitting the rack, i found that the rack is a few inches wider than the mk1 rack measured at the inner tie rod ends and offset to the left side when compared to the rack in the mk1 so it would always be offcentre. (Could somebody with one of these TSR kits give any info on this? do you have more lock to one side?) that was the first thing that put me off fitting it and the second thing was having to cut and weld the universal joint. now maybe I had the wrong model blue bird rack than the one TSR alegedly use but there was no way I was putting this thing near my car.

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I went to a local breakers yard with a mk1 steering rack and the owner left me walk around and compare the rack to the different cars there, I had heard about escort mk5 racks and renault clio racks being used by others but the escort mk5 had different mounting brackets and the clio rack I saw fitted over on the caddyforum needed mods to the bulkhead and mounting brackets as far as i remember.
As i walked around the breakers i looked under the bonnet of nearly ever car there, I spotted a weird jap import Toyota Paseo, i compared it to the mk1 rack and found the mounting points to be very similar and did some measurements and there was 5mm of a difference between the two racks measured at the inner tie rod ends. I bought the complete rack with track rod ends, universal joint, mounting brackets and the pressure pipe that ran to the toyota pump.

this is the toyota rack with the mk1 rack
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1 trial fitted it to the mk1 cabrio shell and it bolted straight up to the mk1 brackets but the uj would not fit, the rack needed to be twisted forward to get the uj to pass through the hole in the mk1 bulkhead so I made some temporary spacer brackets to twist the rack forward enough, i got these machined out of some solid bar at work later on.
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the toyota mounting brackets were cut and welded to allow them to fit over the rack with the spacers in place
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this is the toyota rack in place
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the toyota uj is two piece and adjustable in length. the upper section would not fit the mk1 column so i found an upper section from a toyota levin jap import (or e110 corolla) that would almost fit, now here is the dodgy part! there is a slight mismatch in the splines so i opened it slightly with a chisel and slid it on the end of the mk1 column, the different splines still grip each other quite tightly and i used the vw bolt and nut from the mk1 knuckle, there is a notch in the mk1 column for the bolt so the knuckle couldnt slip even if the bolt was loose (i dont consider this an issue at all and in fact i prefer it to a cut and welded hybrid toyota/vw joint) I had to cut about 10mm off the splined shaft where the corolla section fits in to the starlet section. i used a mk2 gaitor and made the hole in the bulkhead bigger.
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the toyota track rod ends fitted straight in the the mk1 hubs, the taper is the same profile but they are a little longer so there is a 5mm gap between the hub and dust cover, there was no need to shorten tie rods or rethread them to track it. the toyota starlet/paseo pressure hose was run under the drivers chassis leg and to my surprise the end was the same banjo fitting as the audi tt pump, i used a fiat bravo resevoir bottle and made the return line from a mk2 golf return line, i used vw green power steering fluid. the rack is quicker being about 2 3/4 turns lock to lock but i notice it does have slightly reduced turning circle but this suits me as my 195 section tyres on 7.5 inch rims are no longer tearing off my inner wheel tubs on full lock.

I find its one of the best mods ive done to the car, its been working perfectly for the past 5 months.
 
#6 · (Edited by Moderator)
good mon ronan for posting that up. since i was down at you last to pick up the ecu i've sourced the rack and put it in storage with ther rest of the stuff!!
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#8 ·
the toyota Paseo has the same rack and pretty much everything else as the starlet,even the petrol tank is the same.did a 1.5 conversion on a starlet (91) round shape and used a rear ended paseo,theres plenty of jap starlets knocking round in the scrapies and would be easier to get a hold of one of them than the paseo....
 
#11 · (Edited by Moderator)
id say i just got him on a good day, but he did say to me that there was no way id get a toyota rack to work in a vw! i called out about a week later in the car with the rack fitted and working with the excuse that i was looking for a better resevoir bottle because i only had a corolla one cable tied in place. fucker wants a fortune off me now for toyota steering racks
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#12 ·
QUOTE (ronan @ Jan 19 2009, 11:49 PM) <{POST_SNAPBACK}>... fucker wants a fortune off me now for toyota steering racks
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They all seem to be like that; the local one here in clonmel will quote you a daft price for a part eg; a turbo; which you can never be sure of its history/condition, and low and behold a week or two later the entire car would be bailed...
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...they operate with a certain degree of 'stubborness' alright...
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#14 ·
Hi all, I'm a new member from the land down under. I stumbled across Ronan's awesome writeup a few months ago and I have finally got my mk1 gti back on the road with a whole host of improvements including this power steering mod
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I'd just like to say the info from Ronan was unbelievably helpful, everything was exactly as you described. It has made a huge difference and makes the car feel more nimble and throwable. Yes I have noticed a slight decrease in turning circle but after getting a wheel alignment I really think it is negligeable enough to not worry about. To reiterate how well this rack fits up I didn't even adjust the tie rods and when I went for a wheel alignment there was a mere 3mm toe in! By the way I got my rack from a starlet and I grabbed the reservoir and everything, it all fits as is, I had to lengthen the return line to the reservoir by about 5 cms, thats it. Its sitting on the left of the engine bay.

I am running a kr 16vt with an 020 (with a peloquin lsd). Therefore I had to go to the additional effort of making up a bracket for the gear linkages. This was quite easy, I made a bracket out of a piece of angle which mounts to a gusset I welded between the two steering rack mounts on the firewall. This has actually improved the gear linkages because they are no longer mounted to the rack which is in turn only rubber mounted. I stupidly didn't get a photo of this while everything was out. When I get a chance I'll post some up.

So far I'm happy with everything except atm the rack isn't returning to centre very well. I think this is because I modified the mk1 u-joint rubber boot and one of the u-joints is rubbing inside the boot. I didn't want to cut into the firewall to fit the mk2 boot. I'll remove the boot and I'm hoping that this issue disappears, I think it will.

Here are some pics of the car:

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#16 ·
QUOTE (ronan @ May 3 2009, 11:31 PM) <{POST_SNAPBACK}>hello again, its great to see you got it fitted and working, id like to see some pictures of the gear linkage mounting bracket. what did you think of the fit of the toyota corolla knuckle on to the golf steering column?

The spline mismatch was very slight so I just separated the uni slightly like you did, it didn't take much. I think the mismatch is something like 36 teeth compared to 38 - its so unbelievably close! a note though its a good idea to put the uni in a vice so that when you separate the join it doesn't warp the axis that it pivots on. I noticed this happening at one point so I closed the join again and redid it in a vice.

I was thinking of using a golf mk3 upper uni but I think in the end I think this way is much easier and nothing can really go wrong with it. It could never go anywhere with the bolt through the uni and the notch in the shaft.

Did you notice any issue with the steering not returning to center properly? I know one uni joint is definitely rubbing inside the rubber gaitor but you wouldn't think it could provide enough resistance to cause this issue. I guess it is on the assisted side of the steering rack so maybe what seems like a small amount of resistance ends up being exaggerated. I will remove the gaitor this weekend and try it out.

I'll get some shots of that bracket as well.
 
#20 ·
I used a rack from a jap import toyota paseo but ive since found out a starlet one is the same and easier sourced, its an ep90 model starlet like this one and get the pressure hose from rack to pump

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the steering knuckle on the toyota is a two piece design, the starlet upper section wont fit the mk1 steering column but a corolla upper section will fit from this e110 model

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are you going to the limerick show pat? i can bring a pair of modified brackets with me that you can borrow to copy them like we talked about before
 
#21 ·
The two models shown by Ronan are exactly the ones that I used for both parts. I think the starlet was a '96 or '97, regardless it is the shape in Ronan's picture. I used the reservoir and lines from the starlet too and they fit perfect, I just had to lengthen the return line a tiny bit. Just be careful though because that shape starlet came out in manual steer too and they were at least as common if not more than the power-steer model - I almost started stripping a manual steer starlet before I realised!

Today I ripped off the rubber gaitor and now the wheel is returning to centre as it should. Its also insanely easy to turn now! Tomorrow I'm going to go out and buy a small sports steering wheel to make the steering feel quicker, I definitely don't have to worry about the steering getting too hard now.

I have also been thinking about the turning circle difference. I'm thinking this must be because the tie-rod point on the golf hub must extend further out from the centre of the hub than on the starlet. This would also make the steering ratio slower. I'm wondering if the mk2 or mk3 hubs have a different configuration here that would effectively quicken the steering ratio. I am happy with the turning circle as it is but I would like to experiment with getting a quicker ratio out of this set-up. As the steering is now so easy I can afford to lose some of that in return for more ratio. The other idea I had is bending the steering arm on the mk1 hub downwards to achieve a quicker ratio and also have the bonus of getting the tie rods more horizontal when the car is lowered. Anyone have any comments or ideas on this?

Oh and Newtown Mk1 - definitely do it while the motor is out! I did it with the motor in and it makes everything harder.
 
#24 ·
QUOTE (alpine16vt @ May 9 2009, 10:13 AM) <{POST_SNAPBACK}>I have also been thinking about the turning circle difference. I'm thinking this must be because the tie-rod point on the golf hub must extend further out from the centre of the hub than on the starlet. This would also make the steering ratio slower. I'm wondering if the mk2 or mk3 hubs have a different configuration here that would effectively quicken the steering ratio. I am happy with the turning circle as it is but I would like to experiment with getting a quicker ratio out of this set-up. As the steering is now so easy I can afford to lose some of that in return for more ratio. The other idea I had is bending the steering arm on the mk1 hub downwards to achieve a quicker ratio and also have the bonus of getting the tie rods more horizontal when the car is lowered. Anyone have any comments or ideas on this?

id say the reduced lock is due to the number of teeth on the rack not the position of the arms on the hubs, i think if you change the position/length of the arms on the mk1 hubs you will upset the steering geometry (ackermann angle)

how many turns lock to lock is your starlet rack? and how many turns was your mk1 rack

i think mine is 2.25 now and was 3.75 with standard rack
 
#25 ·
QUOTE (ronan @ May 10 2009, 06:44 AM) <{POST_SNAPBACK}>id say the reduced lock is due to the number of teeth on the rack not the position of the arms on the hubs, i think if you change the position/length of the arms on the mk1 hubs you will upset the steering geometry (ackermann angle)

how many turns lock to lock is your starlet rack? and how many turns was your mk1 rack

i think mine is 2.25 now and was 3.75 with standard rack

The starlet rack is 3.25 turns lock to lock. I actually compared with my old Seat and currrent Bora and they both have the same turns as well - not that much quicker than the manual rack really but you definitely can feel it.

I looked up the ackerman angle, you're right but I think if you did bend them in the right way you could still achieve the right angle - the hole has to be in a line from the kingpin to the centre of the rear axle. Anyway I'm not going to bother with that for now, I'll get the smaller steering wheel this weekend and then the following weekend its off to a track day!

Thanks for the feedback, I'm hoping to get some good pics at the track day. One more pic, see if you can spot my new oil cooler location. I'm hoping that will keep it cooler at this track day along with the mk2 radiator and Seat Cordoba twin fan shroud:

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